Discovering the Northumberland Coast Path: A Journey Through History and Nature.
May 14
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Tucked away in the far northeast corner of England lies one of the country’s most breath taking and underrated long-distance trails—the Northumberland Coast Path. Stretching 62 miles (100 km) - although we did a little more! From a seaside village called Cresswell to Berwick-upon-Tweed near the Scottish border, this path is heaven for walkers seeking quiet and stunning beaches, ancient castles, charming fishing villages, and a sense of pure peace.
A Walk Through Time and Beauty
The Northumberland Coast has earned its status as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and for good reason. Every step along the path brings you face to face with dramatic sea views, rugged cliffs, and sweeping sands. But it’s not just the landscape that captivates—the route is also steeped in history.
From the haunting ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, perched above crashing waves, to the storybook silhouette of Bamburgh Castle standing proud above the dunes, you’ll feel the weight of centuries as you walk. There’s also the holy island of Lindisfarne, accessible only at low tide via the causeway, where ancient monks once brought Christianity to England.
Planning Your Walk
Most people walk the route over 4–7 days, depending on pace and how often you want to stop and explore. We did the walk in 4 days, and it was hard going at times with sore feet! The terrain is generally easy, few small hills, with well-marked paths (most of the time!) Good walking boots, clothing for all weathers, and your usual hiking items are essential, we did use the Northumberland Coast Path guide book too. A tide timetable (especially for Lindisfarne) in your web browser may come in handy.
Accommodation options range from traditional inns and B&Bs to self-catering cottages and campsites. The path never strays far from civilization, but it still feels remote and unspoiled—perfect for those seeking a quieter alternative to more crowded UK trails. That's why we love Northumberland. The beaches stretch for miles and even on busier weekend days, or school holidays, the beaches never feel busy.
The Walk itself; what an experience.
The path starts at Cresswell Ices if you go South to North, you can get a stamp in your Northumberland Coast path passport at Cresswell Ices too! We found the finish point was a bit of an anti-climax, an anchor in Berwick, but it does have signs all over it and the Northumberland coast path one is up there.
Day 1 - We were dropped off by Neil's lovely Dad, at Cresswell. We set off to Warkworth, The skies were blue, I had shorts on as it was so warm (I'm usually freezing). We stopped at Druridge Bay Country Park for a cuppa and the toilet, got a stamp from there too! Went on to Amble, got a couple of stamps there from the boutique ice cream shop and the Pin Cushion shop. The lady in the Pin Cushion was so lovely, she was asking all about our walk, asking if we needed any help or recommendations for cafes, just a genuinely lovely lady. We then sauntered off to Warkworth, seeing a heron catch his tea on the way. We stayed at the Hermitage Inn, the room was lovely and we had the best power nap when we got there, then went down to the pub for tea where I had the most magnificent vegan lasagne, soooo many chips and we also shared a pudding. Highly recommend for food! All in all we had such a delightful day, we walked along, chatted and laughed, it was so easy. 11.6 miles.
Day 2 - We set off early to Alnmouth. We felt like it was a proper trudge along to there, only because you could see Alnmouth for ages, but because of the estuary you seem to walk miles away to come back to it! We got to Alnmouth and had a bit of a run in with a grumpy postmaster in the post office. It stated in the list that we got with our passports, that you could get your passport stamped there; but the postmaster was quite rude and said he didn't like the hikers coming in for stamps and he wasn't doing it anymore. We headed off and got a stamp from the Alnmouth golf club, they were lovely in there too and very helpful. From the golf club we headed towards the beach, and then along dune paths with gorgeous views. We then walked to Craster, stopped for a coffee and sorted our poorly feet out. We didn't manage a stamp here, I went into the Jolly Fisherman pub but as it was a sunny Saturday I couldn't get a bar persons attention and at this point I was getting a bit crabby, so left the busy pub and opted for a bench on the front and got our flasks out! We then headed to Dustanburgh Castle, it's not got anything inside and is a bit ruined, but it's my favourite. We got a stamp from here, and carried on, through golf courses and sand dunes- eventually getting to Seahouses. We went for a chippy tea, again as it was Saturday night the chippy was incredibly busy! Off we went to our hotel, hot shower and good sleep. 24 miles.
Day 3 - Up we got, boots back on and off we went, Seahouses to Beal. It was a really windy day so we took a more sheltered path rather than walked along the beach. We headed through rapeseed fields and farmland and watched Bamburgh Castle appear in the distance. It's such an impressive castle, and there are beautiful views of it with every corner you turn in the village. We stopped for a stamp at a local butchers, and then stopped for a coffee break, with a view of the castle. A brew with a view that I'll always remember. We then went off towards Belford, the path goes in-land here. We passed through a small place called Warren, and walked through a caravan park, gaining another stamp in our passports. We followed a path through the park and then through some woods, over a bridge and through some fields to Belford. We crossed the train line near Belford, Neil called the signalman to ask persmission to cross the line, within seconds a train flew past in front of us at over 100mph. If we'd just decided to run across we would have been jam, always be safe when it comes to crossings like that! We then crossed the A1 and made it into Belford. It was supposedly 6 miles until our next point, Fenwick.....it was not! We walked through farm land and followed a Northumberland path sign. It was diverting us well off the trail to see St Cuthberts Cave, something I would have actually gone to see, however it was getting late, and our feet were nearly falling off. We ended up going through a few fields to get back on the path. It was a gorgeous trail through bluebell woods, and the light was golden. It seemed like a long walk to Fenwick. We then had to make it to the hotel in Beal, just on the A1. I did sit on the grass and have a huff, I didn't want to walk any further at this point, but it was only a 35 minute walk so we did it. We were more than relieved to go to the petrol station, buy a load of shite for tea (pot noodles and Nik Naks) and go and get showered and relax. We stayed at the Lindisfarne Inn which was lovely. 21 miles.
Day 4 - Off we went again, to our final destination, Berwick Upon Tweed. We walked through Beal and down to the Holy Island crossing, where we followed a path towards Goswick, a tiny little place with a few houses, and was mostly golf course. We then made it onto a path along the cliffs, with stunning views of the coast. The sky was blue, the sea looked amazing, and eventually we could see Berwick in the distance. It was one of those where I was staring at Berwick for ages but it took so long to get there, we had to go around the river and over the bridge. It felt so good and such an accomplishment to make it to that finish line! 11.8 miles.
We walk long distances, but to do this every day for 4 days I feel is an achievement and I am proud of us both. We keep each other going and will forever cheer each other on.
Highlights Along the Way
Alnmouth: A picturesque village with colourful cottages, dolphin spotting from the pier, cosy pubs and cafés, seafood and cute shops in huts.
Craster: Famous for its oak-smoked kippers and its role as a gateway to Dunstanburgh Castle.
Bamburgh: A must-stop location with its majestic castle and lovely beach. Ideal for a picnic by the castle, or even an overnight stay.
Holy Island (Lindisfarne): A spiritual and historical highlight. Time your visit carefully—when the tide comes in, the road disappears under the sea and you're buggered if you're on it then!
Berwick-upon-Tweed: A charming border town with Elizabethan walls and an Anglo-Scottish past. Tunnels and old streets to explore, there is also a Costa AND a Cafe Nero!
Why Walk the Northumberland Coast Path?
The Northumberland Coast Path is rich in history, in landscape, in wildlife, and in local culture. You might pass seals on the rocks, seabirds of all varieties, and perhaps even spot dolphins or porpoises just offshore. We were lucky enough to see Dolphins near Amble pier, deer, two hares! The light here is special too: golden and clear, illuminating the dunes and casting long shadows over the sands. It just fills your heart.
It’s a walk that clears your mind, inspires your spirit, and connects you with the deep rhythms of the land and sea. I've always said walking and being outdoors should be prescribed, it just always makes me feel good.
Whether you’re a seasoned walker or just looking for a quiet escape, the Northumberland Coast Path invites you to slow down and savour the simple, powerful joy of putting one foot in front of the other along one of Britain’s finest stretches of coastline. We felt free knowing we had only the clothes we needed, a few toiletries and drinks and snacks for the day, just the basics on our backs, and us on the path just feeling care free and loving life.
Recommendations:
The Hermitage Inn - Warkworth. Fantastic old inn, amazing, and massive food portions! Comfy rooms with lovely little touches.
Pub | The Hermitage Inn | Warkworth
The Links Hotel - Seahouses. Lock box hotel room, a basic room but all you need for a hot shower and sleep.
The Lindisfarne Inn - Beal. Lovely hotel, on the A1. Room felt rather luxury after a long day on the trail!
The Lindisfarne Inn | The Inn Collection Group
Northumberland Coast Path book
Northumberland Coast Path Official Guidebook (2024)
Northumberland Coast Path Passport - something to keep afterwards, and something to spur you onto the next destination, and meet the locals!
Northumberland Coast Path Passport
Amble Pin Cushion - purely because the lady in the shop was a lovely human! Definitely going back for a patch to sew onto our backpacks.
Online Fabrics | Fabric Shop UK | Buy Fabrics Online | Craft Shop UK
